Edmond roudnitska, perfumers, author, advocate of art in. Michel roudnitska lived throughout his childhood in a universe of fragrances. Each volume in this encyclopaedic collection covers a specific subject, and the good news is. A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a nose french. Edmond et michel roudnitska, le parfumeur et son fils parfumeur. Roudnitska was a prolific author on technical as well as philosophical matters relating to perfumery. He is known for creating perfumes such as diors eau sauvage and diorissimo, and rochass femme.
Most generic perfume books focus on production methods, raw materials, and the history of perfumery. The plaza hotel asked the two style icons to hand select and curate luxury beauty and fragrances housed in one opulent boutique. He was also a prolific writer, authoring several books and numerous articles on perfumery as late as the 1990s. Edmond roudnitska was more than just a creator of fragrance. A long awaited chance for me to discuss his career, his style as a perfumer, his vision of the trade, and his last years within the house. Perfumer edmond roudnitska created femme in 1944 for marcel rochas to give to his wife, and the bottle was designed to recall mae wests hourglass figure. If youre new to the subject, check out building a fragrance library. Jean claude ellena was a student of edmond roudnitska, best man to michel roudnitska, michel is our contributor emeritus at cafleurebon and worked on many fragrances for houses such as amouage, lartisan parfumeur, bulgari, frederic malle and owned the. None other than edmond roudnitska is the author of this little marvel, first published in 1980 and simply entitled le parfum. A year later, roudnitska was sent to the paris aera to take over from a top perfumer of the company where he was essentially selftaught. See all formats and editions hide other formats and editions. Olivier perrin 1974 sagarin, edward the science and art of perfumery new york, london. A year in the life of a parfumeur jeanclaude ellena. I reflects perfectly my current emotions, i will order his book.
He was initiated by his father, the illustrious edmond roudnitska, into the art of perfume composition. Publication of books, posters, postcards, calendars about tropical paradises. Discover delightful childrens books with prime book box, a subscription that delivers new books every 1, 2, or 3 months new customers receive 15% off your first box. Roudniska to create a perfume for his own line, but it was impossible for he had already passed away in 1996. Art et parfum is currently run by roudnitska s son, perfumer michel roudnitska. Interview with jeanclaude ellena, michel roudnitska, jean. On the territory of the roudnitska house there is also situated a small modern perfume factory. His background as a chemist at roure bertrand dupont and at delaire left him with detailed knowledge of all the natural and synthetic ingredients used in perfumery and predetermined his extremely pareddown style. The elegant, inviting space juxtaposes the classical and the ultramodern to create an environment that maintains the integrity of the historic location while infusing the surroundings with a fashionable ambience. Frederic malle perfume comprehensive guide perfume posse. Frederic malle perfume comprehensive guide perfume posse best perfumes comprehensive guide by perfume note. He created this perfume just for his wife in the mid 50s. French editor sophie meets with jeanclaude ellena to discuss his new book, lecrivain dodeurs.
On tuesday morning, on the occasion of the release in france of his book lecrivain dodeurs, i had the pleasure of meeting jeanclaude ellena for an interview. As he pursued his research work with perfumes, he simultaneously devoted 30 years to. His father initiated him to olfactive raw materials and the art of composition for more than ten years. Vintage diorissimo cafleurebon perfume and beauty blog. Like eau sauvage, diorella has a touch of chypre, but apart from that, it has absolutely nothing to do with eau sauvage. Born in nice, he began his training in grasse at the age of twentyone. Ellena is the exclusive parfumeur at hermes since 2004. He also devoted much of his time to understanding the true sense of the words to create and creation.
I have what looks like a 60s or 70s version of the perfume celadoncolored cap, little enameled white flowers and green leaves running across it. Photo courtesy of pierre benard osmoart parfums couleurs et sons, the creation of diorissimo in 1956 was a revolution in my father edmond roudnitskas way of composing fragrances. By the time edmond roudnitska died in 1996, most of his creations. Michel roudnitska spent his childhood exploring his parents laboratory, where perfume became his mother tongue. Originally established in 1946 in paris, the roudnitskas then moved it to provence in 1949 and, their son, michel, still continues his fathers way. Edmond roudnitska created it for his wife and only long after her death was it released to the public. Edmond roudnitska is remembered today as one of the most important perfumers in history. In cabris, a cozy provencal town near grasse, there is a perfume laboratory, art et parfum, which was founded by edmond roudnitska and his wife theresa. While edmond roudnitska stressed the importance for aspiring perfumers to cultivate their taste and culture, the program at isipca is cutting down on culture and the. Michel roudnitska, perfumer, son of perfumer edmond roudnitska, has kindly made these english language articles by his father available to those interested in reading his works.
Sadly, the teaching of perfumery isnt taking that direction. With all the talk of past reformulations and ifra 43, i decided to do a comparison test of christian diors eau sauvage when a good friend gave me a bottle of es circa 1975. Edmond roudnitska, jean paul guerlain, jeanclaude ellena, coty, ernest beaux, jacques maurel, philippe collet in his laboratories in the basque country. Michel roudnitska perfume composer and consultant art et. Trained for 10 years by his father edmond roudnitska creator of femme.
Roja dove, haute parfumerie in harrods, carthusia, in. Edmond roudnitska himself, creator of his version of a lily of the valley fragrance the legendary diorissimo, greatly admired cotys muguet des bois. Perfumer, philosopher, and aesthete, roudnitska 19051996 left a. One of the main purposes of this book is to demonstrate that a beautiful perfume1 is subjected to the same law on 1 with the expression beau parfum roudnitska refers to the. Despite being born in nice in 1905 in the south of france not far from grasse, the fragrance capital of the world at that time. Diorella has been called a feminine eau sauvage, but roudnitska disagrees. One of the sessions will take place in the garden created by the legendary perfumer edmond roudnitska. So i was intrigued when this book, the diary of a nose turned up in a charity thrift shop. Edmond roudnitska 19051996 was a french master perfumer and author. Edmond roudnitska created perfumes for elizabeth arden, marcel rochas, christian dior, frederic malle and valantino, and was a great advocate of the art of perfumey and the importance creative perfumery should have in our culture.
Jeanclaude ellenas interviews have consistently struck us as reflective, well thoughtout interventions so we could only heartily recommend reading his new opus if you are. Edmond roudnitska is widely considered the pioneer of modern perfumery and one of the greatest noses of all time. Le parfum synopsis based on the 6th edition 2000 table of contents warning chapter 1. His books include le parfum and une vie au service du parfum. You can find an extensive bibliography of perfume books at scented pages. He is known for creating perfumes such as diors eau sauvage and diorissimo, and rochass. Edmond roudnitska 1905 1996 was a french perfumer primarily known for his classic dior creations. Diorella was not inspired by eau sauvage, he claims. It has since been reformulated by olivier cresp, with a promiment cumin note, from what ive heard. Inspire a love of reading with prime book box for kids discover delightful childrens books with prime book box, a subscription that delivers new books every 1, 2, or 3 months new.
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